No, the top guide tube bracket is mounted to the frame using square holes in the guide tube bracket and the top frame mounting plate. When attached with carriage bolts in the retraction mechanism, no shifting can occur, making the bottom guide tube bracket the only adjustment for squaring.

There are no other adjustments for the compact models, but the full size models have a similar arrangement to the Accu-Square, only it's vertical and called the Accu-Fence system. The left roller fence is permanently fixed to the frame. The centers of both fences use square holes and carriage bolts are used to attach the fences to the frame mounting plate. The outside of the right roller fence has an adjustment up or down with the Accu-Fence using the same 1/32" increments of the Accu-Square. This alignment is done at the factory with a specially made 10 foot long straight edge.

The Accu-Glide bearing system uses a special bracket that mounts two sealed steel bearings to the top of the carriage. A bottom bracket is used with a third bearing to "load" or put pressure on the guide tubes and top bearings to ensure alignment. This arrangement is done on all four corners of the carriage. Obviously this is a more expensive way of moving the carriage up and down the guide tubes, but it provides a smoother, more accurate and longer lasting method of moving the saw carriage versus other panel saws that use a U-bolt and nylon washers.

First, unlike other panel saws, our stand is attached when you get the machine. It folds out like a ladder because it uses ladder hinges. It is cross-braced for sturdiness, and uses a bracket on the top of the leg to prevent the leg from going any further back should the hinge fail. It uses a total of 10 lock nuts. Other panel saw stands use angle iron U-bolted to the frame with no lock nuts.

Our panel saw does not have weight on the wheels when it rests on its stand. This is because we don't want the panel saw moving accidentally while in use. A panel saw can shift if someone feeds material too quickly from the side while rip cutting. You have to stand our machine up vertically to get the weight on the wheels to move our machine.

Cam type hubs in the rollers are a nightmare to square. No one owns a ten foot straight edge that allows the user to align the rollers. They have to use this method because the fence plate is welded to their frame and with the heating, cooling and twisting that goes on with welding, they needed a way to initially ensure their rollers lined up. We wanted something easier for the user and take out all of the variables in alignment of other machines. To do this, we bolt on our fences to our frame using CNC precision in the parts. Both fences bolt onto the bottom frame mounting plate that is welded to the frame. Because of this, we can have our wheels use a center hub and rely on perfect alignment. This makes the machine much easier to use and maintain for the end user.

With the proper cutting head in your carriage, you are able to cut any sign substrates you may need to. With the Pivoting Knife plate, you can cut soft, floppy materials like corrugated plastics, PVC, and foam board. The ACM rolling shear plate will cut through 3mil Aluminum Composite Material while leaving a safe non-sharp edge on it. Pair the ACM cutter with our Floating Router attachment to make folded boxes. The Makita saw motor can be used to cut everything else including acrylics/plastics, wood, aluminum, whiteboard and other rigid materials.

Yes, a compact model will hold a full size sheet of 4'x8' or, in the case of our compact 64, a 5'x8' You may find on some end cuts or rip cuts that you need extra support temporarily. We offer our Builders Extensions in either 28" or 56" sizes. These extensions can be bolted on quickly for a job then removed when not needed. This allows you to save floor space.

Yes! On all of our cutting heads, the blades are protected by the insert, meaning you would have to reach through the material travel space which is only about 1.75" wide to get to the blade. With the vertical format, the substrate will stand against the frame instead of needing you to balance the material as you would on a table saw with exposed saw blade. This makes for a much safer environment where any person with some basic training can safely use our saw.

We can put together a package that only includes our dust-free cutting heads for you, the Pivoting Knife and ACM Rolling Shear. The saw motor or floating router can be added to the system later should you need it.

Because our patented Accu-Square system is factory-set, the frame should never need to be realigned. The system locks the guide tubes to the frame, and the material support wheels don't budge, so they won't go out of alignment. With both of these systems together, your panel saw will always be square!

A vertical panel saw, unlike a horizontal panel saw, allows for sheet materials, such as plywood or OSB to be cut vertically, taking up much less floor space. On a table saw, or with a track circular saw, you need a lot more horizontal space to make similar cuts. The vertical panel saw saves on shop space. In the case of breaking down large sheets of plywood, a vertical panel saw can be placed near a wall. A horizontal panel saw really needs to be placed in the middle of a space. Consider breaking down a full sheet of plywood: given how plywood is fed through a table saw, you would need twice the length, at the least. Also, it's much easier for one person to load a vertical panel saw by themselves, than onto a horizontal panel saw. The final thing is safety. Vertical saws have the saw blade guarded behind the carriage making workplace injuries by the blade practically impossible. Horizontal saws may have a guard that pivots out of the way when cutting but still allows for a finger or hand to be cut by the saw blade.

Panel saws can only make straight continuous cuts in either the horizontal or vertical axis, no angle cuts. The thickness of the material to be cut is limited by the saw blade configuration and saw – typically a maximum of 1 ¾ inches. Panel saws can generate significant dust when cutting and should be connected to a dust collection system or vacuum when operating. Plastics may require a special blade and, depending upon the cutting work, additional ventilation. A table saw is a more appropriate tool for rip cutting 2" x 4" boards.

Compact frames offer a 60” wide frame and vertical cut height of either 52” or 64”. The compacts are great for shops or home spaces that may not have the room for a full size panel saw, or for those users who will be taking their panel saw out to job sites. If your cutting needs require a lot of rip, or horizontal cuts, then a full size frame will serve you better. The full size models are available in cut heights up to 100” and feature a 120” wide frame. Cutting 6' x 10' sheets? Then go with one of our 76” models. Cut heights are available in 52”, 64” 76”, 88” and 100”.

We offer the Makita 5007F with our Classic, 1000 Series, Varsity, and Sign Maker saws. These base model saws are appropriate for the general use industries, lower sheet counts, and smaller depth-of-cut requirements. The Makita Hypoid 5477NB in our 2000 Series is used for higher sheet count industrial applications or harder materials, like plastic or thicker MDO/MDF. The Makita HS0600 in our 3000 Series is for deeper depth-of-cut (for Domestic use); the Bosch GKS 65 is for International use (220 volt).

We offer welded steel frames in 7 sizes, all with a powder coated finish. There are the 52″ and 64″ Compact frames for cross cuts (5 ft. wide). There are the 52″, 64″, 76″ 88″ and 100″ (10 ft. wide) frames for cross cuts. Rip cutting can be done in either direction so the dimension of the material is determined by the desired cross cut size.